Visited the Aliya museum in Aktobe this morning; left the city atthat noon. We rode all day for about 500 kms, reaching Uralsk by dark. The road conditions were excitingly varied, met lots of interested ppl on the way, shook a lot of hands. Scenery wasmostly desert this time. Saw islamic cemeteries which look like miniature cities. It took us what seemed like hours to find our mediocre hotel “Ural” in dense traffic. No hotel internet, wroting this on phone. Shocks did not get worse despite my failure to avoid some massive potholes. Teeth still hurt. Tomorrow we plan to continue to Samara.